Lachung to Thingbong

 We traveled on roads that were sometimes a single paved lane, but often the road had washed out and we drove through mud ruts filled with giant stones. I rode most of the way on the back of Gyatso’s motorcycle, which made me giddy and May horrified. It finally became so muddy that it was hard for him to maneuver with me on board so I went back to the van, where our driver Vikram constantly muttered what I feel sure were curses directed at Gyatso for hiring him and his Toyota van to drive this terrible road instead of a four wheel drive vehicle. We stopped for roadside samosas (savory pastries) and momas (steamed dumplings), which were delicious. After we arrived in Thingbong the girls left with Vikram to return to Gangtok. I have been walking around the village, which is comprised of about twenty homes, while May takes a nap. The change in ecosystem is dramatic - this morning we were surrounded by rocks and conifers and it was 20 degrees outside. In Thingbong it is in the mid-60s, and I am surrounded by giant bamboo stands, banana, orange, guava and papaya trees. Lachun was rural, Thingbong is remote. We had to pass through several military checkpoints to get here; it feels like in this part of India you can only go about twenty miles without having your papers reviewed, I think because we are passing through several smaller provinces. The Lepcha province where we are now is a tribal province, and no one is allowed in (even Indian nationals from Sikkim) without express permission from the Lepcha people. A few of the girls in the home are Lepcha, which is how we were able to obtain permits. It’s so quiet here. I’m sitting on stairs that go up the hillside, which is terraced for agriculture, writing, and all I can hear are the roosters, the Teesa River down in the valley, and the occasional call of the farmers to each other. I met several of them going up or down the stairs on their way home, a few of which spoke English and wanted to chat. This is a lovely place.